Nature and Universe
Transhumant Dynasties
Shepherding in Cesacastina
Every summer, on the eastern slope of the Laga Mountains, the flocks return to the high-altitude pastures of Cesacastina; they have spent the winter in the countryside on the outskirts of Rome, in the area surrounding the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Divine Love. For generations, transhumant dynasties have rented winter grazing lands in the Roman Campagna and, in June, make their way back up towards the mountains and the abundant pastures overlooking the village. Yet where there were once dozens of shepherds and thousands of sheep, goats, cattle and horses, only a few remain to safeguard the occupation of their forebears — the result of a passion inherited from childhood.
“Shepherding communities hardly exist anymore. A shepherd, by vocation, is a splendid soloist. It is not like an orchestra where everyone plays together: one sees things one way, another sees them differently; one wants animals for meat, another for milk; one milks the sheep, another does not. If you take a hundred shepherds, none of them will do things in the same way. When two flocks came together, first the dogs would quarrel because they did not know one another; then, after a few months, the owners would start quarrelling. So I do well on my own, and the other does well on his own.”
Claudio Marrocco, 29 September 2016
In Cesacastina, on the Teramo side of the Laga Mountains, shepherding is still practised in residual forms that reveal, in the background, a centuries-old history largely founded upon livestock breeding and transhumant pastoralism. Rich in water and pastureland, the Cesacastina area once hosted the largest concentration of animals in the entire municipal territory of Crognaleto, as witnesses Benito Di Giacinto and Luzio Samuele recall: nearly twenty thousand sheep, thousands of cattle and horses which, especially during the summer months, populated the entire surrounding mountain landscape.
Within the framework of Apennine pastoralism in the Teramo area, Cesacastina represents an imaginary boundary between different forms of transhumance: while the families of nearby Cortino and its hamlets gravitated mainly towards the Tavoliere plain in Apulia, the most important shepherding dynasties of Cesacastina more frequently rented land in the Roman Campagna — as also happened in Fano Adriano — where the surviving practice of transhumance is still concentrated today, although evidence exists that, in a more distant past, families from the village also moved their animals to Apulia. Horizontal transhumance towards Lazio, both in the past and today, follows a rigorous seasonal cycle: shepherds from Cesacastina spend around four months of the year in the mountains during summer, making use of civic rights over the high-altitude pastures, while in winter they descend with their flocks to the countryside of Lazio. Until the first half of the twentieth century, the journey was undertaken entirely on foot and could last between seven and nine days of arduous travel, interrupted by a sequence of stops at predetermined shelter points; later, beginning already in the late 1940s, transport by lorry gradually became established, reducing the hardship of travelling on foot but introducing new costs into an occupation that had become, in Claudio Marrocco’s words, a succession of “a thousand ordeals”.
In the Roman Campagna, whenever shepherds did not have farmhouses available for shelter, they built huts from straw, reeds and wooden poles, where they spent the entire period away from their village of origin. Claudio Marrocco recalls the large pastoral hut, lined with woven marsh reeds in such a way as to prevent both water and air from passing through, where shepherds without families slept and where cheese and ricotta were produced, or meals were cooked on the hearth placed at the centre of the structure, surrounded by only a few tuff bricks.
In the houses of Cesacastina, sheep’s wool — spun by women using the spindle and woven on the loom — was transformed into cloth, blankets, mattresses, sweaters, socks, jackets and heavy garments dyed with plant-based materials such as walnut husks; a domestic body of knowledge that has now entirely disappeared since synthetic fibres have reduced the value of fleece to the point where it barely covers the cost of shearing. Cheese and ricotta were produced in abundance, accompanied by an array of utensils that have largely fallen out of use or undergone radical transformation. Yet more than a repertoire of objects, what defines a shepherd’s prestige and abilities — now as in the past — is embodied knowledge: the ability to regulate the pace of the flock; the symbiotic relationship with animals directed through whistle and voice; the reading of weather signs; the use of the staff and bells as extensions of the body; and constant attention and vigilance to protect free-grazing animals from predation and accidents, as demonstrated by recent studies carried out by the anthropologist Emanuele Di Paolo. Today, this body of knowledge is exposed to constant reconfiguration, necessary for its own survival and inevitably accompanied by the dissolution of the fabric of shared orally transmitted culture, which remained vital only as long as land and animals constituted the sole means of subsistence.
Within the framework of Apennine pastoralism in the Teramo area, Cesacastina represents an imaginary boundary between different forms of transhumance: while the families of nearby Cortino and its hamlets gravitated mainly towards the Tavoliere plain in Apulia, the most important shepherding dynasties of Cesacastina more frequently rented land in the Roman Campagna — as also happened in Fano Adriano — where the surviving practice of transhumance is still concentrated today, although evidence exists that, in a more distant past, families from the village also moved their animals to Apulia. Horizontal transhumance towards Lazio, both in the past and today, follows a rigorous seasonal cycle: shepherds from Cesacastina spend around four months of the year in the mountains during summer, making use of civic rights over the high-altitude pastures, while in winter they descend with their flocks to the countryside of Lazio. Until the first half of the twentieth century, the journey was undertaken entirely on foot and could last between seven and nine days of arduous travel, interrupted by a sequence of stops at predetermined shelter points; later, beginning already in the late 1940s, transport by lorry gradually became established, reducing the hardship of travelling on foot but introducing new costs into an occupation that had become, in Claudio Marrocco’s words, a succession of “a thousand ordeals”.
In the Roman Campagna, whenever shepherds did not have farmhouses available for shelter, they built huts from straw, reeds and wooden poles, where they spent the entire period away from their village of origin. Claudio Marrocco recalls the large pastoral hut, lined with woven marsh reeds in such a way as to prevent both water and air from passing through, where shepherds without families slept and where cheese and ricotta were produced, or meals were cooked on the hearth placed at the centre of the structure, surrounded by only a few tuff bricks.
In the houses of Cesacastina, sheep’s wool — spun by women using the spindle and woven on the loom — was transformed into cloth, blankets, mattresses, sweaters, socks, jackets and heavy garments dyed with plant-based materials such as walnut husks; a domestic body of knowledge that has now entirely disappeared since synthetic fibres have reduced the value of fleece to the point where it barely covers the cost of shearing. Cheese and ricotta were produced in abundance, accompanied by an array of utensils that have largely fallen out of use or undergone radical transformation. Yet more than a repertoire of objects, what defines a shepherd’s prestige and abilities — now as in the past — is embodied knowledge: the ability to regulate the pace of the flock; the symbiotic relationship with animals directed through whistle and voice; the reading of weather signs; the use of the staff and bells as extensions of the body; and constant attention and vigilance to protect free-grazing animals from predation and accidents, as demonstrated by recent studies carried out by the anthropologist Emanuele Di Paolo. Today, this body of knowledge is exposed to constant reconfiguration, necessary for its own survival and inevitably accompanied by the dissolution of the fabric of shared orally transmitted culture, which remained vital only as long as land and animals constituted the sole means of subsistence.
Pasturing at Terralonga
Claudio Marrocco, voice.
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 29 September 2016.
Recording by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 29 September 2016.
Recording by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Listen to the track


Transhumant Dynasties
Shearing
The Toppi family engaged in sheep shearing in the Roman Campagna. The collective carosa, one of the most important events in the pastoral calendar, brought together all the people needed to complete the work within a single day, alternating labour and celebration.
Toppi Archive,
Pomezia (RM), May 1970.
Toppi Archive,
Pomezia (RM), May 1970.


Transhumant Dynasties
Freshly shorn fleeces
Pietro Giustiniani and Ludovico Di Marco display the fleeces of sheep immediately after shearing.
Di Marco Archive,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 1950s.
Di Marco Archive,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 1950s.


Transhumant Dynasties
The height of the crossbar
Claudio Marrocco, accompanied by his dog, shows the height at which, in the past, the horizontal crossbar was positioned between two wooden supports beside the shepherd’s sleeping place at Terralonga, where his father used to cook and make cheese between two stones placed near the fire.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 29 September 2016,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 29 September 2016,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


Transhumant Dynasties
Departure
Claudio Marrocco’s sheep are loaded onto lorries before departing for the Roman Campagna, where they will spend the winter until the beginning of the following summer.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 3 October 2016,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 3 October 2016,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


Transhumant Dynasties
Disinfection
At the end of the summer grazing season, Marrocco’s sheep pass through a basin containing a copper sulphate solution to disinfect their feet and hooves before winter transfer. Animal care remains one of the central skills of the occupation.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 29 September 2016,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive. Archivio Centro Studi Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 29 September 2016,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive. Archivio Centro Studi Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun.
Watch the video
The sheep return
Evening return from pasture of the Romani family flock under the guidance of Edoardo and Domenico Romani.
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 19 August 2013.
Footage by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Cesacastina, Crognaleto (TE), 19 August 2013.
Footage by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Cultural transmission and protection
Today, the intergenerational transmission of shepherding and pastoral culture in Cesacastina is experiencing a profound crisis. The end of the great transhumances of the past, the depopulation of the inland areas of this section of the Apennines, the loss of value of wool, together with market pressures and European regulations, have progressively dismantled the ancient pastoral economy and, with it, the forms of collective self-organisation that constituted its social backbone. Problems arising from the increasingly widespread presence of predators such as wolves have further discouraged local livestock practices, consolidating the substantial abandonment of shepherding in its traditionally understood form. In contemporary times, only a few farms remain, most of which have gradually made their activity sedentary, becoming established around Rome and bringing back to the summer pastures only a limited portion of their livestock assets. Preventing the complete disappearance of the occupation has been, to a significant extent, the arrival of specialised labour from Eastern Europe: Macedonian and Romanian workers now carry out tasks once performed by family members and, in some cases, after years of dependent employment, take over the flocks themselves, giving rise to a genuine “migration niche” in the uplands of Abruzzo, as highlighted by the research of the anthropologist Emanuele Di Paolo.
Particularly significant in this context are the documentation activities carried out in 1965 by Don Nicola Jobbi, who recorded the testimony of Palmerino Marrocco, a nearly centenarian transhumant shepherd from Cesacastina. The Centro Studi Don Nicola Jobbi later published these materials within the framework of the research activities of the European project Tramontana. Equally important are the extensive family photographic archives preserved in the homes of the inhabitants of Cesacastina, documenting an era only marginally explored by the limited research conducted in the area, among which special mention should be made of the studies undertaken by the anthropologists Gianfranco Spitilli and Emanuele Di Paolo throughout the Gran Sasso and Laga Mountains area over recent decades.
Today, some fairs continue to support the sector, such as the one held at Fonte Vetica on Campo Imperatore and the closer fair at Piano Roseto, together with local initiatives promoted by the Pro Loco of Cesacastina aimed at enhancing local pastoral culture and the environmental heritage connected to it. Some butchery and cheese-making activities maintain a productive presence linked to the sheep-farming supply chain, while restaurants — alongside family transmission — ensure continuity in the knowledge associated with preparing dishes of pastoral origin, such as the so-called pecora alla callara. By contrast, only a few living traces remain of the intangible productions, preserved above all in the memories of older generations. Authentic safeguarding of shepherding in Cesacastina therefore depends not only on preserving memory but also on recognising the present value of those who, like Claudio Marrocco and the Romani family, continue to practise in the Laga Mountains a centuries-old way of subsistence undergoing constant and demanding reconfiguration.
Particularly significant in this context are the documentation activities carried out in 1965 by Don Nicola Jobbi, who recorded the testimony of Palmerino Marrocco, a nearly centenarian transhumant shepherd from Cesacastina. The Centro Studi Don Nicola Jobbi later published these materials within the framework of the research activities of the European project Tramontana. Equally important are the extensive family photographic archives preserved in the homes of the inhabitants of Cesacastina, documenting an era only marginally explored by the limited research conducted in the area, among which special mention should be made of the studies undertaken by the anthropologists Gianfranco Spitilli and Emanuele Di Paolo throughout the Gran Sasso and Laga Mountains area over recent decades.
Today, some fairs continue to support the sector, such as the one held at Fonte Vetica on Campo Imperatore and the closer fair at Piano Roseto, together with local initiatives promoted by the Pro Loco of Cesacastina aimed at enhancing local pastoral culture and the environmental heritage connected to it. Some butchery and cheese-making activities maintain a productive presence linked to the sheep-farming supply chain, while restaurants — alongside family transmission — ensure continuity in the knowledge associated with preparing dishes of pastoral origin, such as the so-called pecora alla callara. By contrast, only a few living traces remain of the intangible productions, preserved above all in the memories of older generations. Authentic safeguarding of shepherding in Cesacastina therefore depends not only on preserving memory but also on recognising the present value of those who, like Claudio Marrocco and the Romani family, continue to practise in the Laga Mountains a centuries-old way of subsistence undergoing constant and demanding reconfiguration.







