Rites and social practices
The laments of the Virgin
The pre-dawn procession in Teramo
In the depths of the night on Good Friday morning, the statue of the Madonna Addolorata leaves the church of Sant’Agostino. It moves through the streets and alleyways of the city in search of her Son, followed by a composed multitude of devotees. From four o’clock until dawn, when the first light begins to illuminate the faces of those in procession, the solemn cortege visits all the churches of the city displaying the Holy Sepulchre, according to a custom dating back to the thirteenth century. The mournful silence is softened by the echo of footsteps on the paving stones and, from time to time, by the prayers and sorrowful songs of the women who accompany the Desolate Virgin during the pre-dawn procession.
“I remember the sound of heels striking the street because there was such silence, broken only by the subdued murmur of people making their way towards the church. Those crossing Ponte San Ferdinando were all hooded to protect themselves from the cold; the surprise was recognising one another along the route, discovering the faces of neighbours from the district whom, so heavily wrapped up, we otherwise would not have recognised. We all waited for the Madonna to emerge into Piazza Sant’Agostino, and even today I still become deeply moved”.
Anna Di Ottavio, February 2005
Holy Week in Teramo is marked by a processional system consisting of two long complementary corteges: a pre-dawn procession, known as the Desolata, which unfolds during the night of Good Friday until well after dawn, and a procession of the Dead Christ, with its funerary catafalque and the scenic apparatus of the Passion, held on the afternoon of the same day. The celebrations are today organised by the Archconfraternity of the Cinturati, founded in 1262 and based in the church of Sant’Agostino, which since its establishment has been the exclusive promoter of the pre-dawn procession, and by the “most ancient and venerable” Archconfraternity of the Annunziata, of Suffrage and of the Blessed Sacrament, based in the church of the Annunziata and whose statutes — resulting from the fusion of the fourteenth-century Confraternity of the Annunziata with the seventeenth-century Confraternity of Suffrage — date back to 1789, as specified by the anthropologist Alessandra Gasparroni in her studies devoted to the Easter cycle of Teramo.
The pre-dawn procession in particular stands out for its uniqueness, the antiquity of its institution and the deep attachment of the citizens to the celebration, in which large numbers participate with heartfelt devotion despite the nocturnal hours and the biting cold that often accompanies the passage from winter to the first days of spring. After the visits to the Altars of Repose for the adoration of the Eucharist until midnight on Maundy Thursday, preparations for the Friday morning procession intensify within the church of Sant’Agostino: the wooden statue of the Madonna Addolorata, carefully cleaned and displayed upon the altar, becomes the object of the faithful’s veneration, as they pay their final respects before her departure through the streets of the city, while the bells are “bound” and forbidden to ring until Easter Sunday. The procession of the Desolata begins at four o’clock in the morning, following a tormented route that accompanies the Sorrowful Virgin in search of her Son through the churches of the historic centre where the Holy Sepulchre altars are arranged, pausing inside each church according to a consolidated ritual. At the same time, the chant Adoramus te, Christe is performed, a Gregorian antiphon generally associated with the liturgy of the Via Crucis. Along the route, the pie donne (“pious women”), dressed in mourning, follow the statue and take turns carrying it, intoning in unison devotional chants in Italian and Latin expressing the painful lament of the Mother — the so-called “laments of the Virgin” — interspersed with prayers and accompanied, “within a profoundly suspended and evocative atmosphere, by the background murmur of the crowd and by the urban soundscape with its spaces”, as emphasised by the ethnomusicologist Domenico Di Virgilio, who devoted detailed and thoroughly documented research to the sounds of the Teramo processions.
At the end of the mournful and grief-stricken itinerary, now fully aware of the sorrow awaiting her, the Desolata finally finds the body of Jesus in the church of the Annunziata, at the first light of dawn, laid within a sumptuous, canopied catafalque supported by angels. After the pause and the final farewell to her Son, the statue of the Madonna Addolorata completes the last stretch of its journey by returning to the church of Sant’Agostino, which receives her before the reunification in the Cathedral with the Dead Christ and the solemn funerary procession of the afternoon.
The pre-dawn procession in particular stands out for its uniqueness, the antiquity of its institution and the deep attachment of the citizens to the celebration, in which large numbers participate with heartfelt devotion despite the nocturnal hours and the biting cold that often accompanies the passage from winter to the first days of spring. After the visits to the Altars of Repose for the adoration of the Eucharist until midnight on Maundy Thursday, preparations for the Friday morning procession intensify within the church of Sant’Agostino: the wooden statue of the Madonna Addolorata, carefully cleaned and displayed upon the altar, becomes the object of the faithful’s veneration, as they pay their final respects before her departure through the streets of the city, while the bells are “bound” and forbidden to ring until Easter Sunday. The procession of the Desolata begins at four o’clock in the morning, following a tormented route that accompanies the Sorrowful Virgin in search of her Son through the churches of the historic centre where the Holy Sepulchre altars are arranged, pausing inside each church according to a consolidated ritual. At the same time, the chant Adoramus te, Christe is performed, a Gregorian antiphon generally associated with the liturgy of the Via Crucis. Along the route, the pie donne (“pious women”), dressed in mourning, follow the statue and take turns carrying it, intoning in unison devotional chants in Italian and Latin expressing the painful lament of the Mother — the so-called “laments of the Virgin” — interspersed with prayers and accompanied, “within a profoundly suspended and evocative atmosphere, by the background murmur of the crowd and by the urban soundscape with its spaces”, as emphasised by the ethnomusicologist Domenico Di Virgilio, who devoted detailed and thoroughly documented research to the sounds of the Teramo processions.
At the end of the mournful and grief-stricken itinerary, now fully aware of the sorrow awaiting her, the Desolata finally finds the body of Jesus in the church of the Annunziata, at the first light of dawn, laid within a sumptuous, canopied catafalque supported by angels. After the pause and the final farewell to her Son, the statue of the Madonna Addolorata completes the last stretch of its journey by returning to the church of Sant’Agostino, which receives her before the reunification in the Cathedral with the Dead Christ and the solemn funerary procession of the afternoon.
The sounds of the Desolata
Female and male choir, voices; devotees, footsteps, murmuring voices.
Teramo, 9 April 2004.
Recording by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Teramo, 9 April 2004.
Recording by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Listen to the track


The laments of the Virgin
Towards the Cathedral
The Desolata leaving the church of the SS. Annunziata as it proceeds along the stretch of procession leading towards the Cathedral.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Teramo, 29 March 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Teramo, 29 March 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


The laments of the Virgin
By candlelight
A moment of the pre-dawn procession illuminated by the characteristic candles.
Photo by Gianni Chiarini,
Teramo, 9 April 2004,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianni Chiarini,
Teramo, 9 April 2004,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


The laments of the Virgin
The chant of the pie donne
The pie donne, following the statue in procession and dressed in mourning, intone the “laments of the Virgin”.
Photo by Gianni Chiarini,
Teramo, 9 April 2004,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianni Chiarini,
Teramo, 9 April 2004,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


The laments of the Virgin
The bearer
The face of a bearer while carrying the statue of the Desolata.
Photo by Gianni Chiarini,
Teramo, 9 April 2004,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianni Chiarini,
Teramo, 9 April 2004,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


The laments of the Virgin
Women carrying the statue
The pre-dawn procession passing before Palazzo Melatino, along Via Saliceti, with the women carrying the statue of the Desolata.
Photo by Walter Di Gregorio,
Teramo, late 1970s,
Walter Di Gregorio Archive.
Photo by Walter Di Gregorio,
Teramo, late 1970s,
Walter Di Gregorio Archive.
Watch the video
The Desolata
The procession of the Desolata proceeds towards the church of Madonna delle Grazie.
Teramo, 29 March 2024.
Footage by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Teramo, 29 March 2024.
Footage by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Cultural transmission and protection
Over the years, the procession has undergone several route modifications caused by restoration works carried out following the recent seismic events that affected the Teramo area between 2009 and 2017, damaging numerous religious buildings. In particular, the church of Sant’Agostino — from which the procession has always departed and to which it traditionally returned — has been subjected to repeated interventions over the years, resulting in temporary alterations to the processional route (in 2024, for example, the return took place at the Cathedral). Despite these temporary changes, however, its symbolic value remains unaltered, together with the strong participation of the Teramo community in the ritual event.
As Alessandra Gasparroni and Domenico Di Virgilio emphasise in their research, throughout the twentieth century certain elements belonging to both processional apparatuses progressively disappeared, “impoverishing the formal richness of the representations and the profound evocative power conveyed by the processions”: the tròccola, which announced the nocturnal procession with its “dry and sombre sound”; the Archangel Michael, portrayed by a child wearing helmet, shield and sword and accompanied by a drummer, who opened the evening procession while marking its rhythm; and the imposing string orchestra immortalised in several photographs from the 1940s preserved within the Nardini Collection of the photographic archive of the “Melchiorre Dèlfico” Regional Library of Teramo. Other transformations have inevitably followed the passing of time: the permanent loss or demolition of religious buildings (such as the churches of Misericordia and San Matteo), the closure of the psychiatric hospital and the suppression of the stop at the chapel of Sant’Antonio Abate within its grounds, all generating consequent modifications to the ancient route.
Further archival research and field documentation may provide new elements for study and possible interpretative perspectives on these centuries-old processions, also with the aim of supporting their continuity over time or recovering elements that no longer survive today. The confraternities engaged in their organisation certainly deserve recognition for having carried them down to us from epochs so distant from the present and for continuing to work towards their transmission and safeguarding.
As Alessandra Gasparroni and Domenico Di Virgilio emphasise in their research, throughout the twentieth century certain elements belonging to both processional apparatuses progressively disappeared, “impoverishing the formal richness of the representations and the profound evocative power conveyed by the processions”: the tròccola, which announced the nocturnal procession with its “dry and sombre sound”; the Archangel Michael, portrayed by a child wearing helmet, shield and sword and accompanied by a drummer, who opened the evening procession while marking its rhythm; and the imposing string orchestra immortalised in several photographs from the 1940s preserved within the Nardini Collection of the photographic archive of the “Melchiorre Dèlfico” Regional Library of Teramo. Other transformations have inevitably followed the passing of time: the permanent loss or demolition of religious buildings (such as the churches of Misericordia and San Matteo), the closure of the psychiatric hospital and the suppression of the stop at the chapel of Sant’Antonio Abate within its grounds, all generating consequent modifications to the ancient route.
Further archival research and field documentation may provide new elements for study and possible interpretative perspectives on these centuries-old processions, also with the aim of supporting their continuity over time or recovering elements that no longer survive today. The confraternities engaged in their organisation certainly deserve recognition for having carried them down to us from epochs so distant from the present and for continuing to work towards their transmission and safeguarding.


