Rites and social practices

The Rain Torch

The Candle Procession in Rocche

In the countryside of Civitella del Tronto, between the hamlet of Rocche and the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi (Holy Mary of Lights), a processional cortege moves in the spring, carrying a votive candle decorated at its top with flowers and ribbons and laden with offerings, in thanksgiving for the miraculous rain that fell in 1779 after a long drought. Marked by prayers and the measured pace of the faithful, the large Torch reaches its destination after a journey of several kilometres, renewing each year a centuries-old vow and a pact of alliance between rural communities and their extra-human protectors.
Every year on 20 May, anyone looking along the stretch of road from Rocche to Santa Maria in Civitella will see it crowded with people: parishioners set out in procession towards the ancient convent for the ritual offering of the votive candle. The tradition of the candle, though somewhat diminished in meaning and form, still survives: young people remain committed to honouring the wishes of the elders”.
Vanda Romani, 1950
The Procession of the Candle is a Marian votive and devotional rite linking Rocche di Civitella del Tronto — a hillside hamlet structured into four districts (Rocca Ischiano, Rocca San Nicola, Rocca Case d’Angelo and Rocca Ceppino) — to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi (Holy Mary of Lights), located at the foot of the historic town, about four kilometres from the settlement of Rocche. The observance is conventionally fixed on 20 May, with possible shifts to the nearest Sunday. It commemorates the miraculous rainfall that followed a prolonged drought, which had dried out the fields of Rocche, Civitella itself and neighbouring villages, causing famine, disease and the death of both people and animals.

Available local sources provide differing versions of the miraculous event and its dating, testifying to the vitality of oral tradition in the contemporary context, while consistently preserving the underlying narrative core: the vow, the waiting, the miracle and the perpetual act of thanksgiving carried out by the communities. In a thesis devoted to the “customs and traditions” of the inhabitants of Rocche di Civitella del Tronto and neighbouring villages, Vanda Romani places the event in the “distant May of 1800” and describes the people of Rocche setting out barefoot, singing and imploring, accompanied by a cloud that grows into a storm just as the statue of the Virgin re-enters the church. Elisa Lizzi, in a volume dedicated to the festive memory of her childhood in the village, recounts that the penitential pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi, undertaken in the hope of ending a devastating drought that had lasted for two years, took place “in a distant past”, according to what was told by her grandparents during winter evenings; already during the liturgy the sky darkened, and heavy rain fell as soon as the service ended. Testimonies collected by Andrea Salemi, finally, date the establishment of the cult to 1779, when “the inhabitants of the various rural districts of Civitella organised a procession to the Sanctuary of the Madonna dei Lumi” in order to “avert the impending famine”, and were rewarded by abundant rainfall as soon as they approached the place of worship. Licio Di Donato specifies that the first miracle was followed by a second, similar one, on 27 April 1883, from which the town’s patronal feast at the same sanctuary is said to derive.

In its current ceremonial configuration, on the eve of 20 May, a group of appointed participants goes to the sanctuary to collect the Candle — also known as the Torch — and bring it to the parish church of one of the two Rocche parishes: San Nicola (Diocese of Teramo-Atri), serving the districts of San Nicola and Ischiano, or the church of Santa Felicita (Diocese of San Benedetto del Tronto-Ripatransone-Montalto), serving Case d’Angelo and Ceppino. This division reflects the historically unusual circumstance that the small settlement of Rocche lies along the boundary between two dioceses. At the end of the mass, the procession — with the group of bearers, who take turns carrying the Candle — proceeds on foot and in prayer along the road leading to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi, where a second service marks the conclusion of the votive journey.

Until the second half of the twentieth century, on the morning of 20 May, before the procession began, a veritable auction of offerings took place between the two parishes. Each appointed its own procurator — a well-to-do member of the community — tasked with collecting monetary donations from the parishioners and, in addition to the collective sum, contributing a personal amount sufficient to outbid the rival parish. The auction determined which parish would have the right to carry the Candle in procession and, consequently, to host it after the ceremony at the sanctuary: the Torch would then be kept for the following year in the parish church of the winning side. This agonistic-devotional dynamic between the two diocesan “hemispheres” of the village constitutes a particularly significant anthropological feature: the procession functioned as an annual occasion for renewing the internal polarity of the community, expressed through offerings and generosity rather than conflict. Throughout the four-kilometre route, the pace of the procession was marked by the rhythm of a snare drum and a bass drum, whose steady and insistent beat drew the attention of the farmhouses and hamlets along the way. At the end of the ceremony, the convent offered refreshments of wine, drinks and light food: a moment of hospitality extended to all participants in the procession, which, during the years of post-war poverty, represented for many one of the few festive convivial occasions of the year.

The rhythm of the procession

Luciano Vitelli, voice.

Rocche di Civitella del Tronto (TE), 16 December 2024.
Recording by Gianfranco Spitilli and Andrea Salemi,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.

Listen to the track

LOGO CENTRO STUDI EDIZIONI3bianco
1-Rocche-Cero1-Rocche-Cero
The Rain Torch
The procession in the 1970s
The Procession of the Candle advances along the road linking Rocche di Civitella to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi. In the foreground, the parish priest with a microphone; behind him, the Torch bearers and the community of the faithful; in the background, the fortified town of Civitella del Tronto.

Photo by Antonio Di Baldassarre,
Rocche di Civitella del Tronto (TE), 1970s,
Roccatano Photographic Archive.
2-Rocche-Cero2-Rocche-Cero
The Rain Torch
The tamburellieri (drummers), 1959
The drummers Gabriele Piccioni and Pasquale Di Antonio, with snare drum and bass drum, lead the procession along the road ascending to the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi; beside them, the guide Ermando Bonanni. Behind the musicians, the group of boys in festive attire follows the rhythm of the instruments.

Photo by Silvana Calisti,
Rocche di Civitella del Tronto (TE), 1959,
Roccatano Photographic Archive.
3-Rocche-Cero3-Rocche-Cero
The Rain Torch
The Candle and the road keeper’s house
Andrea Salemi and Licio Di Donato carry the Candle along State Road 81 Teramo–Ascoli, near the former ANAS road keeper’s house; about one and a half metres tall, painted with vegetal motifs and the image of the Madonna dei Lumi, it is adorned with red flowers and offering notes wrapped around its painted surface.

Photo by Silvia Di Donato,
Rocche di Civitella del Tronto (TE), 21 May 2023,
Roccatano Photographic Archive.
4-Rocche-Cero4-Rocche-Cero
The Rain Torch
Arrival at the sanctuary
The procession arrives at the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi at the moment of entering the church.

Photo by Silvia Di Donato,
Civitella del Tronto (TE), 21 May 2023,
Roccatano Photographic Archive.
5-Rocche-Cero5-Rocche-Cero
The Rain Torch
The Candle bearers
The bearers Andrea Salemi and Licio Di Donato accompany the Candle along the processional route, followed by the community of the faithful; in the background, the late-spring countryside of Rocche.

Photo by Silvia Di Donato,
Rocche di Civitella del Tronto (TE), 21 May 2023,
Roccatano Photographic Archive.

Watch the video

The Procession of the Candle

The procession departs from the parish church of Rocche. It proceeds along the state road, with the Candle carried by the devotees and accompanied by the faithful, until reaching the Sanctuary of Santa Maria dei Lumi, where the offering of the Candle and the donations take place, and the liturgical celebration begins.

Rocche di Civitella del Tronto – Civitella del Tronto (TE), 25 May 2025.
Footage by Emanuele Di Paolo,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.

Cultural transmission and protection

Over the course of the twentieth century, participation in the Procession of the Candle has gradually declined, a trend already noted in 1950 by Vanda Romani and confirmed by subsequent sources. Of the hamlets of Civitella that historically took part in the votive route, today only Rocche has maintained the practice in a continuous form; in other localities, the tradition has disappeared. In more recent years, in order to allow working people to take part, the procession has progressively been moved to the Sunday following 20 May, an adaptation that has enabled the rite to continue as a living community practice. The resumption of the procession in 2023, after a three-year interruption due to the pandemic, was experienced by the Rocche community as a moment of symbolic refoundation of the ceremony and coincided with renewed documentary and anthropological attention to the rite.

A decisive role in this phase of revitalisation has been played by the Lizzi–Salemi family, rooted in Rocche across several generations, through publications, photographic and documentary collections, and exhibition initiatives such as the open-air permanent exhibition M’arrcuord – Mi ricordo (marrcuord.it), inaugurated in 2025 within the framework of the Cultural Festival of the Rural Villages of the Laga. Along a rural path, the panels installed as part of the exhibition present fragments of twentieth-century life in Rocche, combining texts, images and recorded oral testimonies. The Procession of the Candle occupies a central place within this exhibition, documented both through archival photographs and through the voices of elderly witnesses. The work carried out, in particular, by Andrea Salemi represents an exemplary form of community-based memory work and safeguarding, in which careful documentation and forms of public presentation come together within a shared project to preserve the cultural heritage of Rocche.

In terms of transmission, the intermediate generation born in the 1940s and 1950s retains a full and detailed memory of the procession. In contrast, the generation of their children and grandchildren participates in smaller numbers, with a gradual erosion of community involvement. The continuation of the rite now depends on the commitment of a small group of Rocche residents who safeguard both its memory and its practical enactment, in the absence of formal institutional recognition and outside commercial or tourist circuits.

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1-Sant_Eurosia-Fuochi-pirotecnici
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1-Civitella-Santa-Maria-dei-Lumi
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