Rites and social practices

The “Queen of the mountains”

The feast of Saint Colomba in Pretara

At dawn on the first of September, pilgrims begin the long ascent from Piana del Fiume towards the hermitage of Saint Colomba, suspended at 1,234 metres on the slopes of Mount Infornace. The path crosses a steep and humid beech forest, guardian of the visible signs of human devotion and of manifestations believed to be supernatural, such as the saint’s miraculous footprints impressed upon the rocks lining the route. Amid the rhythmic and measured sounds of the tamurrë and the songs intoned by women, the effigy of Saint Colomba is carried in procession through the woods surrounding the hermitage, while the faithful seek protection and comfort in the niche beneath the altar.
“Furthermore, we establish and decree that any person wishing to bring sheep to pasture in the mountains must lead them either along the road of Vado di Corno or along the road of Santa Colomba”.
Statutes of Isola del Gran Sasso, 18 June 1419
The feast of Saint Colomba, celebrated each year on the first of September at the hermitage bearing her name, situated at an altitude of 1,234 metres on the slopes of Mount Infornace, on the northern side of the Gran Sasso d’Italia, constitutes one of the most ancient pilgrimage cults of the mountainous area of the province of Teramo, tenaciously preserved thanks to the particular devotion paid to the saint by the inhabitants of Pretara. Sister of Saint Berardo — bishop of Teramo from 1116 to 1122 and today patron saint of the city — and daughter of the Counts of Pagliara, who dominated the Valle Siciliana between the ninth and fourteenth centuries, the hermit saint withdrew while still very young to the northern slopes of the massif during the early years of the twelfth century, where, according to local tradition, she died in January 1116. Her relics, preserved for almost five centuries in the hermitage, were translated in 1596 to the church of Saint Lucia, situated near Isola del Gran Sasso along the road ascending from the main town towards the hamlet of Pretara, where they are still kept today. The wax processional statue, formerly housed in the same church, was instead transferred in 1955 to the new parish church of Saint Donato in Pretara after turbulent disputes that required the intervention of the prefecture and the police forces in order to quell what contemporary accounts describe as a genuine popular uprising. The memory of this conflict reveals the depth of the community appropriation of Saint Colomba by the hamlet of Pretara. Still, it resonates today within the internal hierarchies of devotion, where the hermit saint prevails, in the sensibility of the inhabitants of Pretara, even over the much nearer and more celebrated Sanctuary of Saint Gabriel of Our Lady of Sorrows, the principal centre of organised Catholicism in the valley.

The pilgrimage unfolds along a ritual itinerary of approximately one hour’s walk, beginning at Piana del Fiume and ascending through the beech forest across three successive ridges — the First Ridge, the Ridge Colle Crocetta (Little Cross), marked by a wooden cross placed by the inhabitants of Pretara, and the Prato (Meadow) — before emerging onto the panoramic clearing where the small rock hermitage stands. Along the route, the faithful stop at places where tradition holds that the saint paused during her lifetime, leaving behind anatomical traces of her passage later invested with sacred significance and believed to possess thaumaturgical powers. Among these are the Stone of the Seat, a rock bearing an anthropomorphic hollow against which pilgrims lean “for the good of the bones”; the Stone of the Hand, a cavity with finger-like morphology attributed to the imprint of the saint’s hand; and the Steps of Saint Colomba, a petroglyphic sign of ancient origin — perhaps dating back to the Neolithic period — crossed by a series of parallel incisions interpreted by the faithful as the teeth of the comb with which the saint was believed to have arranged her “thick hair”.

Throughout the day, the foundational legend of Colomba’s sanctity is repeatedly narrated: in January 1116, when her brother Berardo visited her seeking advice on whether to accept the bishopric of Teramo and she had nothing to offer him for the meal, the hermit saint is said to have caused a cherry tree near the hermitage to blossom and bear fruit in the depth of winter, before dying during the following night.

The central moment of the devotional practice takes place inside the small church, where, on the left side of the altar, a narrow niche opens — according to tradition, the bed or burial recess that housed the saint’s mortal remains for centuries — into which pilgrims progressively insert their heads, and sometimes even their arms, for protective and therapeutic purposes connected with the treatment of headaches and migraines. Inside the same niche, the faithful leave small objects — hair clips, hairpins, rosary beads, candles, coins — material signs of a personal request addressed to the saint and of a desire to maintain a lasting contact with her benevolence. The ceremonial action, interpretable as a practice of lithotherapy through bodily inclusion within a space sacralised by the proximity of the relics, is documented in similar forms in only a few other places in central Italy, such as the cave of Saint Michael the Archangel at Colli di Monte Bove (Carsoli) and, above all, the hermitage of Saint Venanzio in Raiano, where the studies of Giovanni Pansa and Annabella Rossi documented the ritual rubbing of pilgrims against the rocks identified by oral tradition as the saint’s resting place and as traces of his earthly presence.

Once the Mass has concluded, the brief procession around the hermitage takes place, opened by the instrumental ensemble Li tamurrë of Pretara. Along the return path, the faithful gather the “cross of Saint Colomba”: a small, young branch of silver fir whose characteristic arrangement of needle-like leaves creates a distinctly cruciform shape. It is taken home as a protective symbol or given to a loved one according to an essentially affective form of transmitting the saint’s thaumaturgical powers.

And you, Colomba, help us.

Group of faithful, voices.

Pretara di Isola del Gran Sasso (TE), 1 September 2013.
Recording by Stefano Saverioni,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.

Listen to the track

LOGO CENTRO STUDI EDIZIONI3bianco
1-Pretara-Santa-Colomba1-Pretara-Santa-Colomba
The “Queen of the mountains”
Santa Colomba
Detail of the processional statue of Saint Colomba, portrayed as a young woman with long chestnut hair, blue eyes and a golden halo.

Photo by Stefano Saverioni,
Pretara di Isola del Gran Sasso (TE), 1 September 2013,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
2-Pretara-Santa-Colomba2-Pretara-Santa-Colomba
The “Queen of the mountains”
The halted procession
The parish priest leads the faithful in prayer during the pauses of the procession: attached to the saint’s statue are monetary offerings pinned onto the many rosary crowns placed upon the simulacrum by devotees.

Photo by Stefano Saverioni,
Pretara di Isola del Gran Sasso (TE), 1 September 2013,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
3-Pretara-Santa-Colomba3-Pretara-Santa-Colomba
The “Queen of the mountains”
The imprint
A pilgrim’s hand rests upon the hollow in the rock that oral tradition identifies as the imprint left by Saint Colomba during a pause along the ascent to the hermitage.

Photo by Stefano Saverioni,
Pretara di Isola del Gran Sasso (TE), 1 September 2013,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
4-Pretara-Santa-Colomba4-Pretara-Santa-Colomba
The “Queen of the mountains”
Gino Tomolati
Gino Tomolati, piffero player of the tamurrë ensemble of Pretara, performs a sonata in the beech forest along the pilgrimage path. The piffero constitutes the melodic principle of Pretara’s instrumental group, which opens the procession and accompanies the ritual and convivial moments of the feast.

Photo by Stefano Saverioni,
Pretara di Isola del Gran Sasso (TE), 1 September 2013,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
5-Pretara-Santa-Colomba5-Pretara-Santa-Colomba
The “Queen of the mountains”
The voices of devotion
Women from Pretara and neighbouring villages intone a devotional song before the statue of Saint Colomba at the conclusion of the procession.

Photo by Stefano Saverioni,
Pretara di Isola del Gran Sasso (TE), 1 September 2013,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.

Watch the video

The feast of Saint Colomba

Around the small hermitage, following the arrival of the pilgrims, the principal ritual actions of the feast of Saint Colomba unfold: the outdoor Eucharistic celebration around the statue, the insertion of the head into the niche beneath the altar, the gestures of care and devotion directed towards the saint by the faithful, and the procession accompanied by the measured sound of Li tamurrë of Pretara.

Pretara di Isola del Gran Sasso (TE), 1 September 2013.
Footage by Stefano Saverioni,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.

Cultural transmission and protection

The feast of Saint Colomba presents a long-standing framework of community transmission, documented in archival sources at least from the fifteenth century onwards: the Statutes of Isola del Gran Sasso of 1419 mention the “road of Santa Colomba” as one of the principal routes leading up to the mountain, while the small hermitage church is already recorded in the diocesan tithe register of 1328. The annual pilgrimage on the first of September today constitutes one of the most powerful moments of communal gathering for the inhabitants of Pretara and the neighbouring communities, functioning as a channel for the intergenerational transmission of local memory connected with the cult of the hermit saint. Its continuity is negotiated within the tension between the intense and participatory religiosity expressed around the hermitage and the more structured forms of organised Catholicism, whose principal centre in the territory of Isola del Gran Sasso is the Sanctuary of Saint Gabriel of Our Lady of Sorrows administered by the Passionist Fathers: two coexisting and complementary devotional regimes with differentiated functions, between which the community of Pretara privileges — in the words of its own witnesses — its “own” specific saint, the “Queen of the mountains” to whom it feels closest and most intimately connected.

Every five years, moreover, solemn extraordinary celebrations are organised in Pretara during August to commemorate the anniversary of the translation of the relics in 1596: a historical pageant, the re-enactment of the miracle of the cherries, and the procession with the saint’s urn together with the simulacra of Saint Berardo and Saint Donato, accompanied by the tamurrë ensemble and the marching band. In terms of heritage enhancement, the pilgrimage of the first of September has for more than a decade formed part of the “Cammino dei Santi del Gran Sasso” (“Gran Sasso Saints’ Route”), promoted by the Genius Loci Association and the Passionist Fathers of Saint Gabriel in collaboration with the CAI section of Isola del Gran Sasso, and is connected to the network of hiking itineraries of the Valle delle Abbazie (“Valley of the Abbeys”). The research conducted in recent years by the anthropologist Annunziata Taraschi and the filmmaker Stefano Saverioni, together with the ethnomusicological studies carried out at the end of the 1990s by Carlo Di Silvestre, as well as photographic campaigns such as those undertaken by Giuseppe Bonifazio and other photographers from the area, have contributed to the creation of a significant documentary heritage concerning the ritual complex, now useful also for its potential safeguarding.

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