Technical and artisanal knowledge
Rolled pasta
Preparing stróngole in San Pietro
Prepared mainly during the winter season, for Carnival or the most important festive occasions, stróngole — called li strónghëlë in the local dialect — are a long, dense pasta with a wide and thick section, obtained from dough worked through vigorous and skilful movements of the wrist. Known throughout the Valle Siciliana, in San Pietro di Isola del Gran Sasso, they are a dish passed down in every household of the village; with rhythmic and coordinated movements of her hands on the rolling pin, Maria Scalone transforms the lump of dough into a circular sheet resembling velvet, a tangible sign of a mastery inherited from the past.
“Stróngolə, plural noun – A type of handmade macaroni, firm and rolled into the shape of thick spaghetti. The name derives from the Greek στρογγύλος (strongýlos), meaning round, cylindrical.”
Giuseppe Savini, 1881
Stróngole (ostrongələ) are a type of handmade pasta, similar to large macaroni, characteristic of the culinary tradition of the Valle Siciliana and particularly widespread in the territories of Isola del Gran Sasso d’Italia and Tossicia. Called li strónghëlë in the local dialect, they are mentioned and described in Giuseppe Savini’s fundamental 1881 work La grammatica ed il lessico del dialetto teramano, in which the distinguished linguist and philologist traces their name back to their rounded cylindrical form, deriving it from the Greek στρογγύλος (strongýlos), “round”, later transmitted through the Latin form strongylus. Savini emphasises how the very name of the dish reflects its physical form, classifying it not merely as a food but as a distinctive element of the linguistic and cultural heritage of the Teramo area of Abruzzo. Another important aspect of his description is the reference to the manual working technique required to obtain these “thick spaghetti”, distinguishing them from the more common or machine-drawn pasta of the time: the dough was “rolled” forcefully across the pastry board beneath the palm of the hand until it acquired a circular section and a solid shape, as Savini further explains when illustrating the preparation of other handmade pasta varieties. It is precisely this specific action of “rolling” that distinguishes stróngole from maccheroni alla chitarra, which are instead “cut” by the strings of the chitarra tool.
In San Pietro di Isola del Gran Sasso, this typical pasta is known in every household; it was traditionally prepared during Carnival or on the most important festive occasions, generally in the winter period. The use of eggs in the dough made it an occasional dish, depending on the economic possibilities of the family; in times of poverty, Maria Scalone recalls, eggs were exchanged to obtain precious salt, and could only rarely be used for making pasta or other food preparations. In perfect accordance with what Giuseppe Savini described at the end of the nineteenth century, Maria’s stróngole have a compact structure and a firm consistency, resulting both from the combination of ingredients — flour, eggs and salt — and from the vigorous working of the dough using the lower part of the palm of the hand, near the wrist, which repeatedly presses the mixture until the desired density is achieved. After a short resting time, the lump of dough is rolled out by applying pressure with the rolling pin on the pastry board; once it has reached sufficient extension and an appropriate thickness, the most complex stage of the process begins. Wrapped around the rolling pin, the sheet is simultaneously flattened and stretched through rhythmic movements of the hands, which widen and tighten around the axis of the tool like the beater of a loom, producing a broad circular surface, sufficiently thin yet firm to the touch. Rolled from both ends to form an overlapping double roll, it is finally cut into thin strips with a knife.
An example of cuisine linked to the pastoral and peasant traditions of the rural Gran Sasso area, stróngole are often dressed with rich meat sauces and are still identified as “the Sunday dish” or the festive meal, even though over time the strict distinction between feast-day cooking and the simpler cuisine of ordinary weekdays has gradually faded. They remain an emblematic expression of peasant resourcefulness, transforming simple ingredients into a pasta with a distinctive texture and consistency.
In San Pietro di Isola del Gran Sasso, this typical pasta is known in every household; it was traditionally prepared during Carnival or on the most important festive occasions, generally in the winter period. The use of eggs in the dough made it an occasional dish, depending on the economic possibilities of the family; in times of poverty, Maria Scalone recalls, eggs were exchanged to obtain precious salt, and could only rarely be used for making pasta or other food preparations. In perfect accordance with what Giuseppe Savini described at the end of the nineteenth century, Maria’s stróngole have a compact structure and a firm consistency, resulting both from the combination of ingredients — flour, eggs and salt — and from the vigorous working of the dough using the lower part of the palm of the hand, near the wrist, which repeatedly presses the mixture until the desired density is achieved. After a short resting time, the lump of dough is rolled out by applying pressure with the rolling pin on the pastry board; once it has reached sufficient extension and an appropriate thickness, the most complex stage of the process begins. Wrapped around the rolling pin, the sheet is simultaneously flattened and stretched through rhythmic movements of the hands, which widen and tighten around the axis of the tool like the beater of a loom, producing a broad circular surface, sufficiently thin yet firm to the touch. Rolled from both ends to form an overlapping double roll, it is finally cut into thin strips with a knife.
An example of cuisine linked to the pastoral and peasant traditions of the rural Gran Sasso area, stróngole are often dressed with rich meat sauces and are still identified as “the Sunday dish” or the festive meal, even though over time the strict distinction between feast-day cooking and the simpler cuisine of ordinary weekdays has gradually faded. They remain an emblematic expression of peasant resourcefulness, transforming simple ingredients into a pasta with a distinctive texture and consistency.
Carnival stróngole
Maria Scalone, voice.
Teramo, 5 May 2024.
Recording by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Teramo, 5 May 2024.
Recording by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Listen to the track


Rolled pasta
The cutting
The final stage in cutting the rolled and stretched dough.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


Rolled pasta
Working the dough
Maria Scalone while working on the dough, applying pressure with the lower part of the palm of the hand near the wrist.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


Rolled pasta
The dough lump (the panetto)
The lump of dough obtained after kneading, before being rolled out.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


Rolled pasta
Rolling out the dough
Maria Scalone rolls out the dough with the rolling pin through continuous rhythmic movements and great skillfulness.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.


Rolled pasta
The stróngole
Maria Scalone shows the freshly cut stróngole.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Teramo, 5 May 2024,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Watch the video
Preparing stróngole
Maria Scalone demonstrates the preparation of stróngole and the various stages of their making.
Teramo, 5 May 2024.
Footage by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Teramo, 5 May 2024.
Footage by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive.
Cultural transmission and protection
The preparation of stróngole is today widespread throughout the Valle Siciliana, particularly in the territories of the municipalities of Isola del Gran Sasso d'Italia and Tossicia, especially in the hamlets, both in domestic settings and in local restaurants. They are commonly prepared throughout the year, on Sundays or during the most important festive occasions; they have therefore retained their distinctive character as a celebratory dish, although they are consumed more frequently today than in the past, when the scarcity of essential goods limited their preparation to only a few specific occasions. In San Pietro di Isola del Gran Sasso in particular, stróngole are prepared in almost every household of the village, on a wide variety of occasions, and the recipe continues to be transmitted across generations. Maria Scalone, for example, has passed on the preparation techniques to her son Romano Fagnani, who today assists her in the most physically demanding stages, such as the making of the “rolled” dough using the base of the palm of the hand.
At present, there are no structured safeguarding programmes dedicated to preserving the knowledge and preparation techniques of stróngole. However, this traditional local pasta is frequently available in many restaurants in the area. It is also included within museum itineraries devoted to the material culture of the territory, such as the Museo delle Genti del Gran Sasso in Tossicia, where it is documented as a central element of the pastoral diet. Thanks to the initiative of scholars passionate about gastronomy, such as Rino Faranda, stróngole have also been mentioned and promoted in publications dedicated to the cuisine of the Teramo area, particularly that of the Valle Siciliana, where elderly women describe them as “the pasta of courage”, referring to the strength required to “roll” the dough across the pastry board until long, thick strands are obtained.
At present, there are no structured safeguarding programmes dedicated to preserving the knowledge and preparation techniques of stróngole. However, this traditional local pasta is frequently available in many restaurants in the area. It is also included within museum itineraries devoted to the material culture of the territory, such as the Museo delle Genti del Gran Sasso in Tossicia, where it is documented as a central element of the pastoral diet. Thanks to the initiative of scholars passionate about gastronomy, such as Rino Faranda, stróngole have also been mentioned and promoted in publications dedicated to the cuisine of the Teramo area, particularly that of the Valle Siciliana, where elderly women describe them as “the pasta of courage”, referring to the strength required to “roll” the dough across the pastry board until long, thick strands are obtained.




