Rites and social practices
Blow after blow
The game of morra in Befaro and Colledoro
In the villages of Befaro and Colledoro, within the municipality of Castelli, as across northern Abruzzo, the game of morra unfolds in front of cellars, during fairs and festivals, and in both public and private gatherings. Players meet after work or during moments of celebration, giving life to intense and continuous matches that may last for hours. Faces tighten, and voices shift with the rhythm of the “calls”, as numbers are shouted towards the opponent, and each exchange becomes part of a challenge that resembles a ritualised form of combat.
“Morra is a bit of a delicate thing. It’s not easy to explain, because when you play, you use your brain and your mouth at the same time — what you say, that’s what counts. It just comes out, it’s all in the head. It all depends on how fast your brain works”.
Nazareno Ciotti, September 23, 2011
According to Gennaro Finamore, the term morra may refer to an ear of wheat or other grasses (mórre), a flock (mòrre), or the game itself (mòrre, mòra). The word is traditionally used to define a precise and limited quantity of sheep, a morra of sheep, or even a morra of maize, as morra player Italo Saputelli recalls; some morristi therefore suggest that the term may be used more generally to indicate a numerically identifiable quantity, which in the specific case of the game corresponds to the ten fingers of two hands, the morra: “perhaps morra is a group of fingers, the highest number,” says Roberto Saputelli. According to some scholars, the word may derive from the Latin murris, meaning “heap” or “pile of stones”, where shepherds would sit and play while watching over their flocks; or from the Mediterranean term morra, meaning brawl, confusion, uproar, in reference to the excitement and loudness of the game.
In the hamlets of the municipality of Castelli, such as Befaro and Colledoro, as throughout northern Abruzzo, morra is frequently played in continuous and unbroken matches, often accompanied by the drinking of wine and by a specific variant of passatella, played only as a consequence of the outcome of the morra itself. Apart from the occasional tournaments or competitions organised by local committees and Pro Loco associations, the game is mostly played spontaneously in front of bars or during private social gatherings. In the past, morra was also played in stables, while waiting for a cow to give birth, or during pig slaughtering, while waiting for the meal: it was an opportunity to be with friends and spend time together in the evenings.
“Morra is played with ten numbers, of course using both hands,” explains Roberto Saputelli; “the lowest possible score is two, since the smallest numbers are one and one, and the highest score is ten, which is precisely the morra.” The game aims to guess the total sum of the hands thrown against each other. When played two against two, the match usually follows the system of jì and ‘rvenì, up to twelve jì and ‘rvenì, that is, twelve points “going” and “returning”; play continues up to twelve, and then another round begins. In case of a tie, there is la bella (a deciding round), as in any other card game. The numbers are called out loud and played with the hand, with the arm extended towards the opponent.
The winner, or a skilled morrista, is often compared to a “seer”. Morra is, in fact, considered a mental game, based on intuition and memory; for the experienced player, Nazareno Ciotti, its fundamental elements are the “brain” and the “mouth”, that is, the speed of thought and speech working together. The techniques of the game take shape within what is known as the passata — defeating all members of the opposing team and then starting again from the first — which allows for close observation of the opponent. From passata to passata, the experienced morrista watches in silence, deliberately loses a few hands, understands the opponent and eventually neutralises them; as explained by Italo Cilli, a morrista from Colledoro: “you can win the first game, the second, then the third — he watches you, and after that you don’t win anymore. That’s just how it is, there are four or five of them… they read your mind!”
According to the classification proposed by the anthropologist Vittorio Lanternari, morra can be defined as a competitive positional game, combining both chance and strategy, in which luck and calculation are equally present, as stated by the players themselves. At the same time, morra displays certain features typical of non-competitive ceremonial games, such as choreographic and performative elements. The game appears, in every respect, as a form of sublimated combat, whose instruments are the hand and the voice. “Morra is a game of words”, “it is above all a challenge of words”, say Donato Carlini and Italo Cilli from Colledoro; numbers are not simply spoken but shouted, and the tone of voice becomes a means of assertion and intimidation.
The rhythmic element is a constitutive aspect of morra: players tend to place themselves within a continuous flow that must not be interrupted, except when a point is won, when the course of the game is momentarily altered and suspended. The verbal, sonic and bodily challenge becomes a ritualised struggle between two or more personalities, where what is at stake is social prestige. For Tito Carlini, “the satisfaction lies in defeating the opponent”, as it does for Nazareno Ciotti from Befaro: “I like it because when you win, you feel a sense of satisfaction — it’s all about the brain, about passion”; it is the recognition of mental ability, mastery and character, in a state of perfect balance between concentration, skill and chance.
In the hamlets of the municipality of Castelli, such as Befaro and Colledoro, as throughout northern Abruzzo, morra is frequently played in continuous and unbroken matches, often accompanied by the drinking of wine and by a specific variant of passatella, played only as a consequence of the outcome of the morra itself. Apart from the occasional tournaments or competitions organised by local committees and Pro Loco associations, the game is mostly played spontaneously in front of bars or during private social gatherings. In the past, morra was also played in stables, while waiting for a cow to give birth, or during pig slaughtering, while waiting for the meal: it was an opportunity to be with friends and spend time together in the evenings.
“Morra is played with ten numbers, of course using both hands,” explains Roberto Saputelli; “the lowest possible score is two, since the smallest numbers are one and one, and the highest score is ten, which is precisely the morra.” The game aims to guess the total sum of the hands thrown against each other. When played two against two, the match usually follows the system of jì and ‘rvenì, up to twelve jì and ‘rvenì, that is, twelve points “going” and “returning”; play continues up to twelve, and then another round begins. In case of a tie, there is la bella (a deciding round), as in any other card game. The numbers are called out loud and played with the hand, with the arm extended towards the opponent.
The winner, or a skilled morrista, is often compared to a “seer”. Morra is, in fact, considered a mental game, based on intuition and memory; for the experienced player, Nazareno Ciotti, its fundamental elements are the “brain” and the “mouth”, that is, the speed of thought and speech working together. The techniques of the game take shape within what is known as the passata — defeating all members of the opposing team and then starting again from the first — which allows for close observation of the opponent. From passata to passata, the experienced morrista watches in silence, deliberately loses a few hands, understands the opponent and eventually neutralises them; as explained by Italo Cilli, a morrista from Colledoro: “you can win the first game, the second, then the third — he watches you, and after that you don’t win anymore. That’s just how it is, there are four or five of them… they read your mind!”
According to the classification proposed by the anthropologist Vittorio Lanternari, morra can be defined as a competitive positional game, combining both chance and strategy, in which luck and calculation are equally present, as stated by the players themselves. At the same time, morra displays certain features typical of non-competitive ceremonial games, such as choreographic and performative elements. The game appears, in every respect, as a form of sublimated combat, whose instruments are the hand and the voice. “Morra is a game of words”, “it is above all a challenge of words”, say Donato Carlini and Italo Cilli from Colledoro; numbers are not simply spoken but shouted, and the tone of voice becomes a means of assertion and intimidation.
The rhythmic element is a constitutive aspect of morra: players tend to place themselves within a continuous flow that must not be interrupted, except when a point is won, when the course of the game is momentarily altered and suspended. The verbal, sonic and bodily challenge becomes a ritualised struggle between two or more personalities, where what is at stake is social prestige. For Tito Carlini, “the satisfaction lies in defeating the opponent”, as it does for Nazareno Ciotti from Befaro: “I like it because when you win, you feel a sense of satisfaction — it’s all about the brain, about passion”; it is the recognition of mental ability, mastery and character, in a state of perfect balance between concentration, skill and chance.
A night challenge
Roberto Saputelli, Matteo Fioravante, Nazareno Ciotti, Tito Carlini, voices.
Befaro di Castelli (TE), September, 23 2011.
Recording by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Befaro di Castelli (TE), September, 23 2011.
Recording by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Listen to the track


Blow after blow
Morra and shepherds
Morra match at the Pastoral Fair.
Photo by Maurizio Anselmi,
Piano Roseto di Crognaleto (TE), July 10, 1983,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Photo by Maurizio Anselmi,
Piano Roseto di Crognaleto (TE), July 10, 1983,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive


Blow after blow
The flow of the game
Video frames of a four-player morra match.
From footage by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Colledoro di Castelli (TE), September 22, 2011,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
From footage by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Colledoro di Castelli (TE), September 22, 2011,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive


Blow after blow
An old postcard
“Neapolitan types – The game of morra”. Children playing morra are depicted on an old postcard.
Anonymous,
Naples, early 20th century,
C. Cotini Editions.
Anonymous,
Naples, early 20th century,
C. Cotini Editions.


Blow after blow
Donato Carlini
The morrista Donato Carlini before a match.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Colledoro di Castelli (TE), September 22, 2011,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Colledoro di Castelli (TE), September 22, 2011,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive


Blow after blow
The sum of the hands
Some hand positions during the throw.
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Saputelli di Cermignano (TE), September 22, 2011,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Photo by Gianfranco Spitilli,
Saputelli di Cermignano (TE), September 22, 2011,
Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Watch the video
Morra match
In a light-hearted atmosphere of friendly competition, a group of morristi play a game of morra in front of the village bar.
Colledoro di Castelli (TE), September 22, 2011.
Footage by Gianfranco Spitilli, Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Colledoro di Castelli (TE), September 22, 2011.
Footage by Gianfranco Spitilli, Don Nicola Jobbi/Bambun Study Centre Archive
Cultural transmission and protection
The game of morra is currently widespread across several Mediterranean areas of the European continent, from Italy to the southern regions of Spain and France, as well as Corsica and Croatia. In Italy, it is particularly practised in Sardinia and in various northern and central-southern regions, especially in rural settings and local contexts, including festivals and community events. Since late 2022, as an integral part of Tocatì – the International Street Games Festival held annually in Verona – morra has been inscribed in UNESCO’s Register of Good Safeguarding Practices of Intangible Cultural Heritage, becoming one of the traditional games protected under this programme and a central feature of the festival itself.
In northern Abruzzo, morra remains primarily a spontaneous practice, still widely performed during public and private celebrations, in front of bars, at fairs, village festivals and local gatherings, and at times also within competitions organised by local associations. Its transmission to younger generations takes place in these informal settings, through observation of more experienced players and direct participation in play. In the area between the municipalities of Castelli, Bisenti, Arsita and Cermignano, a significant occasion in which the game is particularly practised and brings together a large number of morristi is the Feast of Saint Peter in the territory of Bisenti, held on Easter Monday around the church of the same name, isolated on a hilltop overlooking the surrounding valleys.
For a deeper understanding of morra as a social and ludic practice in the areas of the middle Vomano Valley, the upper Fino Valley, the Siciliana Valley and the Mavone Valley — with particular reference to its connection with the cult of Saint Peter and to the relationship between gambling and cleromancy — it is important to recall the ethnographic research conducted by Gianfranco Spitilli in 2011. Based on historical documents attesting to the use of the game in the rural pre-unification context of the nineteenth century, morra is described through fieldwork with several dedicated players and analysed from an anthropological perspective, offering an initial framework of its key elements: its strong ritual component, not without connections to supernatural interlocutors, its rules and essential grammar, its social function, as well as the postures, verbal expressions and sound forms that accompany it.
In northern Abruzzo, morra remains primarily a spontaneous practice, still widely performed during public and private celebrations, in front of bars, at fairs, village festivals and local gatherings, and at times also within competitions organised by local associations. Its transmission to younger generations takes place in these informal settings, through observation of more experienced players and direct participation in play. In the area between the municipalities of Castelli, Bisenti, Arsita and Cermignano, a significant occasion in which the game is particularly practised and brings together a large number of morristi is the Feast of Saint Peter in the territory of Bisenti, held on Easter Monday around the church of the same name, isolated on a hilltop overlooking the surrounding valleys.
For a deeper understanding of morra as a social and ludic practice in the areas of the middle Vomano Valley, the upper Fino Valley, the Siciliana Valley and the Mavone Valley — with particular reference to its connection with the cult of Saint Peter and to the relationship between gambling and cleromancy — it is important to recall the ethnographic research conducted by Gianfranco Spitilli in 2011. Based on historical documents attesting to the use of the game in the rural pre-unification context of the nineteenth century, morra is described through fieldwork with several dedicated players and analysed from an anthropological perspective, offering an initial framework of its key elements: its strong ritual component, not without connections to supernatural interlocutors, its rules and essential grammar, its social function, as well as the postures, verbal expressions and sound forms that accompany it.







